When it comes to installing your ez-grass™ synthetic turf, you can choose to do-it-yourself or have an ez-grass™ certified representative install for you. The average installation will take between two to three daysand will be dependent upon the project size, the number of crew members, and the experience of your crew.

The information pertained below is to provide a general overview for those who choose to install the synthetic turf on their own.

When it comes to installing your ez-grass™ synthetic turf, you can choose to do-it-yourself or have an ez-grass™ certified representative install for you.  The average installation will take between two to three days and will be dependent upon the project size, the number of crew members, and the experience of your crew.

The information pertained below is to provide a general overview for those choose to install the synthetic turf on their own.

TOOLS NEEDED

  1. Hand roller or plate tamper
  2. Shovel, Hoe, Tiller or Sod Cutter
  3. ¾” Crushed stone
  4. Vibratory Plate Tamper
  5. 10″-12″ Seaming tape
  6. Commercial-grade adhesive
  7. Chalk-line or spray paint
  8. Shears or carpet utility knife
  9. Industrial broom or power-broom
  10. Silica sand and/or granulated rubber (if infill installation is required)
  11. Drop spreader (infill installation)
  12. 10″-12″ Landscape spikes

Some of the tools above can be rented at your local hardware or equipment rental business.

PLANNING

  1. The area for turf installation should be clearly defined and marked, if necessary.
  2. In this planning stage, it should be noted which direction the turf rolls will be laid out.
  3. Also, note the borders of the turf and determine which edging or curbing technique will be used.
  4. Be sure to allow for drainage, runoff, wet or shady areas, etc.. when laying out your yard and keep in mind the turf arrives in 15′ widths.

AREA PREPARATION

  1. Remove all grasses, sods, mulches etc. from the marked area. (Sod removal in small areas can be done with a hoe or shovel and you can use a tiller or rented sod cutter for larger areas).
  2. In-ground sprinklers may be capped or removed at this time.
  3. If you are landscaping around trees, shrubbery, flowers, light poles, utilities, etc., remember to mark around those areas and account for the turf edge configuration.
  4. Remember to leave ample area uncovered around the bases of trees.
BASE CONSTRUCTION

  1. A crushed stone base layered should be spread evenly over the prepared area.
  2. The crushed stone should be a Class 2 aggregate, with maximum particle size of three-fourths of an inch (¾”), or approved equal. Class 2 aggregate is available in most areas.
  3. The crushed stone should be spread evenly, as smoothly as possible, and compacted to ninety percent (90%) proctor. A vibratory compactor will suffice on most small projects. A roller compactor may be necessary.
  4. As a rule of thumb, in arid climates such as Edmonton, Calgary or Toronto, four (4) inches of base course material is sufficient. In climates with more rainfall or a higher water table, such as Victoria and Vancouver, six (6) inches may be necessary. The standard is four (4) inches of base course material for synthetic turf surfaces.

LEVELING LAYER

  1. If the base course layer is not as smooth as desired, or there are undesired undulations, it may be necessary to add a layer of fines (stone dust, screenings, manufactured sand, etc.) to fill in the low spots or create a smooth surface. This layer should be kept to a minimum , preferably no more than two (2) inches. This layer must be compacted with a heavy roller. Do not use a vibratory compactor.

TURF LAYING

  1. Roll the synthetic turf surface out on top of your constructed based, as planned. If the site requires multiple roll widths, be sure to have the grain of the fibers on each roll of turf running in the same direction.
  2. If seaming is required (multiple roll widths), trim the selvedge (un-tufted edge) off of one roll and lay it on the base, in the desired position.
  3. Lay the next roll adjacent to the first and overlap one edge of the adjacent roll of turf on top of the trimmed edge of the first roll.
  4. With scissors or utility knife, trim the overlapped roll to match the trimmed edge of the first roll.
  5. Make all cuts as close as possible without touching.
  6. Repeat as needed for as many roll widths as the job requires.
  7. Around the borders, trim the turf to match the edges.
SEAMING

  1. Fold the adjacent trimmed edges of two rolls of turf approximately two feet apart the entire length of the seam.
  2. Mark the centerline of the seam on the exposed base with a chalk line or spray paint.
  3. Roll out seam scrim or tape centered over the entire length of the seam line. Apply adhesive covering all of the seam tape from one end to the other. Depending on the type of adhesive used, you may need to allow time for vapors / gases to escape (flashing). Refer to the adhesive manufacturer’s directions. The flashing time required may be dependent on ambient temperature and humidity.
  4. After adhesive has flashed, lay the edges of each roll of turf directly onto the adhesive/tape, making sure not to bury any grass fibers into the adhesive.
  5. Be sure to add weight (i.e. sandbags or rubberbags) down the length of the freshly laid seam, or use a heavy roller along the seam length. The adhesive drying / curing time will vary with different adhesives dependent upon climatic conditions.
  6. Caution: Too much fiber exposed (not enough infill) will cause the fibers to mat or crush with heavy foot traffic. This will lead to premature wearing of the fiber and will void any manufacturer’s warranty.
  7. There may be more than one type of infill used on the same site. In many cases, a combination of silica sand and granulated rubber, or silica sand and manufactured sand top dressing, may be used in layers. In either case, the silica sand is installed first, followed by the granulated rubber or top dressing.
  8. Be sure to follow the site specifications outlining the amount or depth of each infill material.

INFILL INSTALLATION

  1. In synthetic lawn applications, a drop spreader (commonly used to spread grass seed, fertilizer, lime, etc.) should be used to spread the infill in lifts ranging from to no greater than half and inch (½”) depths. In between the spreading of lifts or layers, the fibers should be brushed upright with a plastic bristle industrial broom or a power-broom. This keeps all of the grass fibers erect and exposed. Fibers trapped underneath the infill may not ever be recovered.
  2. Do not use stiff steel bristle brooms that can damage the fiber.
  3. Be sure not to pour the infill in large quantities on the synthetic turf. It is easier to work the fill in with smaller quantity sizes placed in the turf.
  4. If the borders or edges are to be secured, save the infill installation for these areas for last.
  5. Repeat the infill spread / fiber brooming process until the infill is evenly spread such that no more than three-fourths of an inch (¾”) of grass fiber tips are exposed above the level of the infill. A good rule of thumb is two (2) to two and a half (2½) pounds per square foot.
  6. Caution: Too much fiber exposed (not enough infill) will cause the fibers to mat or crush with heavy foot traffic. This will lead to premature wearing of the fiber and will void any manufacturer’s warranty.
  7. There may be more than one type of infill used on the same site. In many cases, a combination of silica sand and granulated rubber, or silica sand and manufactured sand top dressing, may be used in layers. In either case, the silica sand is installed first, followed by the granulated rubber or top dressing.
  8. Be sure to follow the site specifications outlining the amount or depth of each infill material.
SECURE EDGES

In many cases, securing the edges or borders is not necessary and an optional installation activity. The weight of the infill alone is enough to keep the turf in intimate contact with the base.2. If an exposed edge is a concern (because of a curious animal, high activity at the border, etc.), the edges can be secured in a number of ways:

Landscape spikes

Simply hammer landscape spikes, timber spikes, sod staples, etc. into the edge at desired intervals. Afterwards, more edge trimming may be necessary.

Nailer Board

When installed next to a concrete or asphalt curb, a nailer board / synthetic lumber can be installed (preferably in NUMERAL II, AREA PREPARATION ) by nailing the board to the curb with concrete nails. The turf can then be nailed into the top of the installed nailer board with a landscape nail. Afterward, more edge trimming of the turf may be necessary.

Buried Edges

Excavate a narrow trench around the border, deep enough to bury the exposed edge of the turf. Tuck the turf’s edge into the trench (additional trimming of excess turf may be necessary). Backfill the excavated soil against the buried turf, and compact. The edge can then be hidden with mulch, straw, rock, etc.

FINISH INFILL INSTALLATION

If a secured edge was installed, it will probably be necessary to add infill around the border. Use the technique described in INFILL INSTALLATION (step 4).